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If you’re designing a job that will ultimately go to a printing press in CMYK mode and it’s going to contain one or more gradients, you’ll get better printed results (less color shifts) if you create those gradients after you convert to CMYK mode.
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Corey shares another way to get a cool 3D light beam effect.
Corey finishes up the Olympic-inspired design that he began last week in Part 1.
The Olympic-inspired tutorial will be coming in two parts. Stop by next week for the conclusion to this video.
This week’s tutorial deals with creating masks for complicated images by using channels.
You can create really cool panoramic images with Photomerge. Located under File>Automate, Photomerge has taken great leaps to make your panoramic photos as painless as possible. In some cases, you can shoot holding your camera close, and shoot in a circle. Thanks so much to Dave Cross for the tip, although I’m sure many people will wonder what I am doing spinning in a circle like I’m seven years old. At least I have an excuse.
kevio said on — July 3, 2008 @ 2:35 pm
You can also add a very slight amount of noise to give the gradient some “tooth”. I almost always do gradients in PS instead of vector apps. Especially if you are going from really dark to really light. You might also talk to your printer about the curves they use on their press. Many printers have gone to a higher contrast curve to meet customer demands for “punchier” photos and graphics. This curve results in banded gradients due to decreased dynamic range. On a job a few years back, I had a printer use their old press curve and it fixed the banding problems we were having.