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If you’ve got a number of photos open in Camera Raw, and you make some edits to one of those photos, and you think to yourself, “Hey, that doesn’t look bad,” you can quickly apply those same edits to other images. Here’s how: Once you’ve made your edits to an image, Command-click (PC: Control-click) on the photos along the left side of the dialog to which you want to apply the same edits. Then click on the Synchronize button in the top-left side of Camera Raw. This brings up a dialog with a checkbox list of all the edits you can do in Camera Raw. If you want all the changes you applied to the first image to be applied to your selected images, choose Everything from the Synchronize pop-up menu at the top of the dialog. If you only want a few edits applied, uncheck the checkboxes beside the edits you don’t want applied.
When you open multiple RAW images in Camera Raw, if you press Command-A (PC: Control-A) to select them all, any change you make to the top image in the list will be made to all the other selected images. But what if you’d prefer to edit the fourth or fifth image down, and have all the rest adjusted the same way (rather than having to adjust the first photo in the list)? It’s easy—once all the photos are selected, Option-click (PC: Alt-click) on the photo along the left side that you want to base all your edits on. That photo will now appear in the preview window, and changes you make to it will also be applied to all other selected RAW photos.
Double-clicking on a RAW image in Bridge opens that image in Photoshop’s Camera Raw, but if you’d prefer to always have RAW images processed by Bridge’s Camera Raw instead, just press Command-K (PC: Control-K) to open Bridge’s Preferences, and in the list on the left side of the dialog, click on Advanced. When the Advanced options appear, turn on the checkbox named Double-Click Edits Camera Raw Settings in Bridge.
When most of us think about sorting or rating images, we think about Bridge, but believe it or not, you can pretty much do the same thing right within Camera Raw. For example, let’s say you open 60 images in Camera Raw. You can toggle through the different images by clicking on the left/right arrows in the bottom-right side of the preview window. To delete any image you don’t like, click on the Trash icon in the Toolbox (it only appears when you have multiple images open). To add a star rating to a file, just click on it in the list of images on the left side of the dialog and drag out your rating below the image’s thumbnail.
If you’ve been processing images and you want to quickly save a file with the settings you’ve just applied, you don’t have to have the whole Save As dialog appear, which just takes up time and space. Instead, hold the Option key (PC: Alt key), and then click the Save button. It will simply save your image and apply the settings you selected without closing the Camera Raw dialog. It’s faster, it’s funner, and it’s all gooder as well.
If you’ve made a number of adjustments in Camera Raw, and you’re not happy with them and just want to get back to where you started, go to the Camera Raw Settings pop-up menu (it’s just above the White Balance pop-up menu) and choose Camera Raw Defaults. That’ll put the photo back to how it looked when you opened it.
Another advantage of working with RAW images comes when you need to make your image larger than the original. Of course, this is generally thought of as a big no-no because making a photo bigger than it’s original usually means a major loss of sharpness and quality, but if you’re shooting RAW, well…not so much. Well, not nearly as much. So, all you have to do is go to Camera Raw’s Workflow Options (in the bottom-left corner of the dialog), and from the Size pop-up menu choose a larger size (make sure you also choose 8 Bits/Channel for your depth), and you’ll get much better results from your forbidden upsizing than you would have if you tried to do the same thing in Photoshop using the Image Size dialog (under the Image menu).
If you’re providing photos to magazines, websites, or really just about anybody, you might want to strip out your metadata, or anybody with Photoshop will be able to learn a lot about you. For example, they’ll know what kind of camera and lens you have (including make and model), what day you took the photo, edited the photo, and so on. Luckily, stripping the data out is easy, because you don’t really strip it out. Just do this: Open the photo in Photoshop. Press Command-A (PC: Control-A) to select all, then press Command-C (PC: Control-C) to copy the photo into memory. Press Command-N (PC: Control-N) to create a new blank document in the same size, color mode, and resolution of your copied photo. Don’t change anything; just click OK. When the new document appears, press Command-V (PC: Control-V) to paste your copied photo into your new document. Press Command-E (PC: Control-E) to merge this image layer with your Background layer, and save the file. The embedded EXIF data is left behind, giving you a clean image with no personal data attached.
If you’re shooting only in RAW (and not RAW+JPEG), then you don’t have to worry about changing the color space in your digital camera to match the edit space in Photoshop. That’s because you’ll actually choose the color profile that will be assigned to the photo right before you process the RAW file—it comes in “untagged.” It’s RAW after all, right? So choose your color profile from the Space pop-up menu in the bottom-left corner of the Camera Raw dialog before you open the image in Photoshop. (Note: If you don’t see the Space menu, turn on the Show Workflow Options checkbox.)
If you decide that you want to create JPEGs from all your RAW images, the entire process is automated in CS2, but you don’t do it from Camera Raw—you do it within Photoshop. You start by going under Photoshop’s File menu, under Scripts, and choosing Image Processor. When the dialog appears, choose your folder of RAW photos, then choose the folder where you want the new JPEGs saved. In the third section, you choose the file type and the size you want your images to be. Do you want just JPEGs, or also TIFFs and PSDs as well? It’s up to you. If you like, you can apply an action to your images and a copyright while you’re at it. Once you’ve entered your preferences and click Run, Image Processor automatically creates separate folders (inside the folder you indicated in section two) for each type of file (JPEG, TIFF, or PSD).
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Corey shares another way to get a cool 3D light beam effect.
Corey finishes up the Olympic-inspired design that he began last week in Part 1.
The Olympic-inspired tutorial will be coming in two parts. Stop by next week for the conclusion to this video.
This week’s tutorial deals with creating masks for complicated images by using channels.
You can open RAW images in Camera Raw right from Bridge in Photoshop CS3. This frees up Photoshop to continue working on your files while they’re being processed in Camera Raw. Just select one or more images in Bridge, Control-click (PC: Right-click) on them, and choose Open in Camera Raw. This will open the image(s) in Bridge’s Camera Raw rather than Photoshop. You can also use the keyboard shortcut Command-R (PC: Ctrl-R).