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If you’re creating a gradient using a spot color that fades to white, to make sure your gradient appears just on the spot separation plate, create the gradient to go from the spot color to a 0% tint of the same spot color (for example, go from 100% red to 0% red). Just click on the color’s opacity stop (that appears above the stop in the color ramp) and then lower the Opacity in the bottom-left corner of the Gradient Editor. That way, when you do your seps, the entire gradient will appear on the red separation.
If you’re scanning black-and-white line art for reproduction in print, here are two quick tips that’ll help you get better results:
1. Scan the line art image at the dpi you’ll be printing it. This is the one time we break our long-standing “don’t-scan-at-too-high-a-resolution” rule—but only when it comes to line art. If you’re going to output your line art on a 600-dpi laser printer, scan it at 600 dpi. If you’re going to output it to high-resolution film negs, scan it at 1,200 dpi (that’s about as high as you’ll need to go).
2. Scan your line art images in Grayscale mode. If you do, then you can apply filters such as the Unsharp Mask to help clean and define the lines, and you can use Levels to brighten the white areas.
Note: If you scan in Bitmap mode, you won’t be able to use these two important line art cleanup tips, because they’re not supported in Bitmap mode.
Just about every image that is brought into Photoshop, whether from a scanner, digital camera, CD-ROM, etc., needs to be sharpened. The undisputed tool for this task is Photoshop’s Unsharp Mask filter. The only downside of using this filter is that getting the level of sharpening you’d like can sometimes cause color shifts and halos, and it can also accentuate dust or specs within the image. There are two ways around this, and what’s great about these methods is they let you apply a higher level of sharpening without causing color shifts or other problems: (1) Convert your file from RGB mode to Lab Color. Continue Reading »
If you’ve printed an image with a gradient in it, you’re probably familiar with banding (a visible line where one color ends and the next starts, like bands of color, instead of a smooth transition from one color to the next). There’s a very popular tip for getting rid of banding that’s very effective for high-resolution imaging. Open the image in Photoshop and go under the Filter menu, under Noise, and choose Add Noise. When the Add Noise dialog appears, for Amount enter 2, for Distribution choose Gaussian, turn on the Monochromatic checkbox, and then click OK. You’ll see a little bit of this noise when viewing the image onscreen, but when printed at high resolution, the noise disappears and hides the banding. We add noise to every gradient we create for just that reason.
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but Photoshop’s Healing Brush (Shift-J) doesn’t have an option for controlling its opacity (the way the Clone Stamp, Brush, Eraser, and other tools have). But there is a workaround if you want to use the brush and have some control over its opacity. Just go ahead and use the brush first; then to lower the opacity of your stroke, go under the Edit menu and choose Fade Healing Brush. When the Fade dialog appears, lower the Opacity slider to the desired amount. It’s a bit clunky, but it works.
If you’re using a Wacom tablet and wireless pen with Photoshop, you’ve probably already uncovered the secret hiding place where Adobe tucked the pressure sensitivity controls. (Hint: They’re in the Brushes palette.) But if you want to use pressure sensitivity with the Healing Brush, it’s in a totally different spot. To turn it on, press Shift-J until you have the Healing Brush tool, then in the Options Bar, click directly on the Brush thumbnail, and a menu will pop up (it’s not the standard Brush Picker). At the bottom of the menu, you’ll see a Size pop-up menu, where you can choose Pen Pressure.
Don’t ever be concerned about experimenting in Photoshop CS2’s amazing Shadow/Highlight feature—mess with the sliders all you want, because you can always get back to the factory-default settings, even if you’ve overridden them by saving your own defaults. You do this within the Shadow/Highlight dialog (under Image, under Adjustments) by clicking on the Show More Options checkbox. Then, hold the Shift button, and you’ll see the Save As Defaults button at the bottom of the expanded dialog change to the Reset Defaults button. Click it, and the factory defaults are back, baby!
By default, the Shadow/Highlight adjustment command decreases the shadows by 50%, but if you’d prefer to have Shadow/Highlight open flat (with no automatic shadow adjustment), you can set your own defaults. That way, you decide how much, and when, the shadows get opened. You do this by going under the Image menu, under Adjustments, choosing Shadow/Highlight, and then dragging the Shadows slider to 0%. Click on the Show More Options checkbox, and at the bottom of the expanded dialog click on the Save As Defaults button. That’s it: Now you get to decide if the shadows get opened up, and how much, because everything’s set flat.
I have to give credit for this incredible tip to NAPP member Stephanie Cole, who showed it to me after the Midnight Madness session at the Photoshop World Conference & Expo in LA. She pointed out how you can get a real mottled-looking result sometimes when using the Healing Brush. However, she found that when you change the brush shape (by clicking on the Brush thumbnail in the Options Bar) to a tall thin brush, it heals using a star-shaped stroke. This greatly reduces the mottling often associated with the Healing Brush, creating a smoother-looking, more natural retouch. My thanks to Stephanie for allowing me to share her very slick trick.
One of the cornerstones of professional retouching is to always perform your retouches on their own separate layer. That way you never “bruise” (damage) the pixels of the original image. However, when using the Healing Brush in Photoshop 7, you really had no choice—you had to use it on the same layer. In Photoshop CS, you can heal to another layer. But first, there’s a little setting you have to change. Get the Healing Brush from the Toolbox, then up in the Options Bar, turn on the checkbox for Sample All Layers. Next, click on the Create a New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette to create a new blank layer above your Background layer and do your “healing” there.
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Continue exploring the possibilities with Photoshop’s new 3D tools.
Corey shows you how to make a new photo look damaged by blending in some unusual textures.
Use Photoshop’s new 3D tools to create some dazzling background effects.
In the second part of this tutorial, Corey finishes creating this illustration of a striking match.
In Bridge, you can add keywords to images to make searching for pictures a little less cumbersome. You don’t, however, want the process to become tedious as well. By either Command-clicking (PC: Ctrl-clicking) or Shift-clicking on images, you can select multiple files inside Bridge. Once you have the files selected, you can go to the Keywords panel and turn on any keyword you like. This will apply the keyword to all of the files that you have selected. It takes away a little bit of the pain of categorization, but just a little.